"The expected is what we live for. The unexpected is what changes our lives."




Wednesday, February 8, 2012

All You Need to Know About Korea!

"I do not wish my house to be walled on all sides and my windows stuffed. I want the cultures of all lands to be blown about my house as freely as possible." - Gandhi
I wanted to write about some of the things I've noticed, experienced,  & discovered in Korea, so over time I would jot notes down in my I-pod. While I will admit most of them are pet peeves, I've learned a lot from living in a different culture for a year. I do not look down on Korea's culture what-so-ever! America has plenty of its own flaws, so to say it's any better would be a lie. However, living here has made me appreciate certain things more, as well as see some situations with a different perspective. On top of living in a new culture, I have also benefited from the experience of traveling across the world to live by myself & do something I've never done before. Meeting new people, listening to their stories, & creating relationships within the fellow foreigner community has also played a major role in the person I am now. All of this in just one short year! It's been a memorable journey & I can't wait to use the knowledge I've gained from it in my future life choices!


Here's a list of things I will miss in Korea:
- Feeling of safety (leaving my purse unattended without worry, walking down dark alleys, honesty in returning lost items)
- Not having to carry keys of any kind! Some people had apt keys, but I was happy to have an electronic key pad (wouldn't feel as safe with that back home though)
- Bank books..sounds odd, but I like the electronic bank book that you can update at the ATM
- Bars closing at 6am (ok, I agree it's not healthy to stay out at a bar that late, but I enjoyed the handful of fun nights I had with friends staying out late & walking home when the sun was rising)
- Being able to walk down the street with an alcoholic beverage (kinda like a mini-vegas haha)
- Public transportation, especially trains & subways (the convenience of it, not the crowded claustrophobic feeling I'd get from time to time on it)
- Ondol (heated floors)
- Cheap price of going out to eat with friends (at Korean restaurants at least) 
- The little bells you press for service at restaurants 
- The amount of money I get paid to do minimal work...I mean yes, teaching ESL has it's difficulties, but overall the job is fairly easy
- NO RENT!
- Cheap gas & electric bills
- No car payment or having to worry about the cost of gas & riding my bike everywhere
- How easy it is to get around the country quickly 
- The opportunity to travel to other countries (convenient and affordable) 
- All the free time I had to just relax & do whatever I wanted to
- And most of all....my awesome friends I've made here!!

However, I will NOT miss these things:
- Feeling the need to take two showers to scrub off the smell of smoke after you come home from the bars, no matter how little time you were in there
- Humidity of summer & freezing temps of winter
- A bathroom entirely covered in water all the time
- Waiting 2 days for clothes to dry
- Hand-washing every dish
- The difficulty for cooking for one person (and finding the ingredients for non-Korean food)
- Jumping over piles of puke and globs of spit on the morning walk to the bus
- Seeing everyone's trash on the street corners & scattered everywhere else in small piles
- Having to depend on only public transportation (yes, I said I will miss it, but sometimes it's easier to have a car in certain situations)
- Overpriced western-food
- Instant coffee 
- Korean cable TV
- Never being informed of important things at work
- Korean food in general (yes, I learned to like a few things, but overall it's not my favorite)
- Getting glared at for showing skin or cleavage, lol
- Lack of "common decencies" (ex: saying "bless you," "please," & "sorry") & getting shoulder-bumped all the time
- Korean SPAM text messages!!! (3-5 per day)
- I could think of more, but that's all for now, lol!


The following is the list of the notes that I jotted down over time about what I noticed around me.


My Personal List of Things I've Discovered in Korea:
- Smacking! That's a pet peeve back home, but it's 10x as worse here!
- Lack of courtesy and consideration (shoulder-bump wars!)
- No such thing as a line...
- Pushing and shoving through people like it decides if you're going to heaven or hell
- Overcrowding trains, buses, and subways rather than waiting for the next one
- Koreans answer everything with "maybe!"
- There is no special assistance for special needs students, so sad!
- School keeps the toilet paper in the staff office rather than in the restroom (because that makes so much sense right?!)
- Koreans talking about you in Korean and when you ask them what they are talking about because you heard them say your name, and they reply, "Oh, we were talking about how beautiful you are!" That's when you know they are lying!
- Squatter toilets...just not as comfy!
- Walking into a clothing store and having the store lady tell you "Largey ubsayo!" aka "you're too fat for the clothes in here"
- Lack of dressing rooms & lack of size labels on clothes
- All shirts either look like they are for Barbie, or they look like you could fly in them because of the extra baggy style under the arms of the shirt
- Hips don't exist on Korean females, therefore it is nearly impossible to buy jeans or shorts that fit foreigners (unless you make a trip up to Seoul)
- Foot size larger than an American 9? No shoes for you!
- Whiny Korean girls who take a picture of themselves or re-apply make-up every 5 seconds whether they are sitting or walking
- At the schools they have you change into slippers, yet you walk outside in snow, water, grass, spit, etc. to get from building to building, then enter the classrooms. Doesn't that defeat the purpose?! 
- Going to the gym is a whole complicated process in itself
- Getting stared at in the saunas for having tattoos or constantly having creepy ajummas follow you around to different areas of the sauna & speak Korean to you as if you understand
- Going into a Korean hair salon and not walking out with un-requested bangs or hair up to your chin is considered a miracle
- You have to be careful to make sure any cosmetic you buy doesn't have bleach in it!
- You pray your taxi driver doesn't speak English so that you don't have to interpret what the hell he's trying to say to you
- Hair accessories....good God, the hair accessories!
- Forgot your deodorant for the weekend? No fear, you can find some at the convenient store, but for the inconvenient price of around $12 for one small spray can
- High heels, short skirts, and sitting in the squatting position - not a nice look Korean ladies!
- Ajummas use public transport not only to transport themselves, but also their crops in a baby stroller (sans baby of course), and a few cardboard boxes
- I once saw a young woman pushing her child in a wire basket w/ wheels (like a shopping cart) across the street, while an ajumma pushed her crops in a baby stroller the opposite way across the street...oh the irony!!
- Men carry not only their girlfriend's purse, but also their own
- I've seen more "crazy" people on the streets here than back home (I wonder if they believe in insane asylums here?)
- I've admired more shoes on males than females, because it doesn't matter what gender you are, pink Nike's are acceptable
- Breakfast is the same as lunch and dinner, sweet American style breakfast items are considered desserts or snacks and eggs and sausages are part of lunch or dinner.
- Being force fed Korean food in the office or at staff lunches and dinners no matter how much you insist "kinchanayo" which means "I'm ok or I'm fine"
- Being asked if the food is too spicy by every single person at the table during eating
- Being corrected on your usage of chopsticks on a daily basis
- Every time the principal is sitting at the lunch table it never fails that you didn't put any of the side dishes like kimchi, radishes, anchovies on your tray that day and like clockwork he looks at your co-teacher to translate to you that it's traditional in Korea to eat these foods...oops!
- Any Korean who stops you on the street and can speak English is most likely trying to convert you into their church

The next list is one I modified & classified into categories from a fellow English teacher. I posted one of these lists before, but this is a more lengthy one. People who have actually lived here may relate more, but still kinda funny & interesting if you want to know what it's like to live/teach in Korea!

Living & Accommodations:
- Your apartment's peephole is useless because it's always covered with a restaurant or grocery store flyer.
- You have not had to change a light bulb since moving in.
- The sound of the doorbell means that the Jehovah’s Witness want to call you a heathen. They have English DVDs if you can’t understand that you’re going to Hell. 
- The dirt in the space between the sliding doors builds up faster than you can possibly control.
- You’ve stopped wondering why all your cardboard disappears the minute you throw it out.
- Half of your furniture IS cardboard.
- You find yourself chopping vegetables on the floor or on top of the fridge because there is no counter space.
- Dishes and ironing are taking up too much of your spare time.
- You never shut your bathroom door for fear of drowning...
- You need to start making a schedule of your laundry waiting period...
- At least once a week you crawl across your apartment floor to get something you forgot after putting your shoes on...
- There are only 3 shower settings – boiling hot, luke warm, freezing cold…
- You wince every time you turn on your bathroom faucet…
- You still have no clue how the garbage/recycling system works here...
- You leave the house almost every day with the hem of your pants soaking wet...
- All you watch on TV are Korean game shows and K-Pop music videos…
- Loud construction workers are Korea's answer to the alarm clock...
- Hope you can read Korean because your heater & washing machine aren't in English!
- Only fools move furniture up a stairwell.
- Your non-smoking hotel room smells suspiciously like smoke.

School Life/Teaching:
- On overnight school field trips, six highly intoxicated chaperones are just as effective as one sober one.
- Kids better be on the bus when we leave because there are no head counts.
- On field trips, the kids are perfectly safe being let loose on their own in a public place while the teachers have a picnic and/or take shots of Soju.
- There is no better browser than Internet Explorer...if you download Google Chrome on your school computer, it is likely they will delete it...every time!
- No matter what page it’s on, the word search will be completed first.
- Mechanical pencils break after each letter but students love them.
- A cutesy pencil case is an elementary girl’s most prized possession.
- Your school’s English section is decorated with spelling mistakes and grammatical errors.
- You never know how to dress. It might be school picture day or you might be going on a staff hike up a mountain. You just never know.
- The P.E. teacher is the chubbiest Korean at the school.
- At least 1 student has gotten your phone number somehow.
- At least 1 student has discovered where you live somehow.
- For English teachers, foreigners use the non-existent word “deskwarming” a lot.
- The school and the DMOE is always trying to screw us over. Always.
- You feel like you’re playing Frogger every time you walk to school or have lunch in the cafeteria.
- During class, your co-teachers are more concerned with fixing their badminton rackets and checking the floors for rubbish than they are with teaching (or they sleep!)
- You & your students' fate is often determined through a game of Rock, Paper, Scissors.
- You can’t be trusted to teach regular class alone. But if it’s after school, they’ll expect you to teach multiple grades, levels, and gender groups alone for hours.
- You can pronounce over 20 of your students Korean names perfectly but none of them can pronounce yours, even if it’s only 4 letters long.
- School sports day has nothing to do with sports.
- Wearing your gym clothes to class every day after running in circles is comfortable and hygienic.
- You’ve-ah started talking like-ah this-ah
- The school bell makes you crave ice cream...
- You hit the switch language button on your keyboard more often than the space bar…
- Who needs a janitor when you have a school full of kids?
- You understand that your chalk will break and your whiteboard marker will give out several times in one class.
- You look forward to discovering another new species of giant insect that flies in through the open classroom window.
- You cross your arms in an X every time you say NO or disagree about something.

Food/Eating/Stores:
- The perfect sidedish to pizza is a bag of pickles.
- Food allergies are non-existent. You should be able to eat anything and give the kids whatever you want. 
- Pizza and hamburgers are snacks; not meals.
- Easy-open packages are definitely not easy to open.
- Most food comes with 3 layers of packaging.
- You look over your shoulder for your kids every time you buy booze or cigarettes.
- You love buying food in the supermarket that is scotch-taped to something else.
- The wait staff likes to cook your food and feed it to you.
- “Free samples” means “feed your entire extended family” (even if they’re not there).
- People just love to watch your groceries go through the checkout.
- Chocolate pies are currency – who’d have guessed that?
- Clerks in the stores stand at attention and ready to pounce on you with customer service.
- All food is "delicious" with no exceptions...
- The smell of kimchi, garlic and soju is an aphrodisiac...
- Fish and rice belong at any breakfast table...
- Everyone is very impressed with your chopstick skills and kimchi-eating ability…
- Animals love to advertise their own consumption on the restaurants advertisements....
- You will buy ANYTHING with English instructions…
- All food comes either in a single serving or a convenient 30-pack…
- The only thing Chinese about a Chinese restaurant is the name…
- You wish the country would import cows…
- If you had a wish, you would make every person taste a Western pizza…
- You can wrap your umbrella when entering a store - this is genius!

Transportation:
- Koreans are in a rush to go everywhere... except when they are standing on escalators or moving walkways.
- Even if the cab driver has no idea where you want to go, he will spend 10 minutes pretending that he does.
- Middle school girls practice their dance routines at the subway station.
- You can conveniently buy thermal underwear on the subway. Its use will also be demonstrated for you.
- People are respectfully quiet on public transportation. (you WILL get shushed & glared at)
- Pedestrians share the sidewalk with automobiles and motorcycles...
- Every city bus will have at least 2 teenage boys sitting in each other's laps and playing with each other's hair...
- People think you should board the train first before allowing people to get off...
- Little kids traveling alone on public transit is nothing to be concerned about...
- Even if you are fast asleep on the subway or city bus, you won't miss your stop...
- No matter where you are standing, you are always in an old lady’s way…
- There are more bags of recycling taking up space on public transportation than baby strollers.
- Parking a car means turning off the engine.
- Stop lights & stop signs are pointless 
- Sleeping on public transportation is an art form

Out in Public:
- It makes perfect business sense to open your cell phone or jewelry store right next to 20 other stores that sell the exact same thing.
- The push/pull signs on doors are often blatant lies meant to embarrass you.
- It's impossible to flirt through eye contact because everyone is looking at their phones.
- No one is trying to steal your wallet, kidnap your kids and shoot you in the head.
- Korean women can do anything in high heels.
- One of the double doors is always locked. They vary which one each day to confuse you.
- You think you’re back in university after hearing loud drunks stumbling home at 4am on a Sunday morning… but then realize its 50 year olds wearing suits.
- You’re getting used to walking on brick after brick after brick.
- Restrooms don't have tiolet paper or paper towels...
- A single bar of soap can kill the bacteria on the hands of 1,000 people…
- Every child you pass on the street will say 'hello' to you...
- Kids and non-smokers are invincible to second-hand smoke...
- Trash can fires are not just for the homeless anymore...
- You are at risk of being hit by a car the second you walk out of your apartment...
- People think that it is really nice to meet you once again for the 300th time...
- Most laws are merely suggestions...
- The apocalypse has not arrived... it's just some guy selling fish...
- Everyone is fascinated by their own face and like to take lots of pictures of themselves...
- There is no pornography anywhere but there's at least 5 brothels in every small town...
- There are only 2 languages ever spoken - Korean and English...
- Everyone, including 7 year olds, has a nicer cell phone than you...
- The most used feature on the phone is the mirror.
- Cell phones are meant to always be turned on...
- Your shoes’ safety is always at the back of your mind…
- Someone is always watching you…
- Sometimes you feel that the whole city is just a giant school…
- People only need to walk one block to reach a convenience store or PC room…
- People politely start public trash piles rather than littering everywhere…
- Little children will pee wherever they are.
- Matching outfits show a committed relationship.
- Men in business suits puke in the street. Seems classier than home.
- 1980s American popular culture is catching on here fast.
- You admire their ability to squat...they make it look so comfortable!
- You will hear the same techno music song coming from 5 different stores on the street within walking a few feet
- It's perfectly acceptable to literally grab customers off the street to get them to come inside your store.

Older Generation:
- The elderly have more active lives than you do.
- The elderly are scarier than teenagers.
- Even when your spine is twisted all to hell, you can push with the best of them. 
- Visors are always in style

Money:
- 10 won is of less use than a penny.
- You can often make purchases by swiping your card, without entering codes or signing anything. You feel very secure about your finances.

Exercise/Health:
- You need at least 3 pairs of shoes to go to the gym and must store them in separate lockers.
- The treadmill is for practicing reading and texting while walking.
- Old men at the gym spend over 10 minutes blow-drying their pubes.
- The gym has equipment for every possible useless exercise you can do and they’re being used regularly.
- You find yourself disappointed in the equipment offered at the free public park gyms...
- You receive health advice from 10 year olds.
- Your medical exam is like a relay race.
- You start telling people they should “take a rest.”

Weather/Nature:
- You like 2 of the seasons. The start of Spring and Fall are more anticipated than Christmas.
- Your hands are cold all winter. You can’t stop sweating all summer.
- Curiously, you are a little excited about the yellow dust season…
- You keep wondering what makes this season so distinct from the others…
- You’re getting used to fruit flies buzzing around your head.
- Mosquitoes and fruit flies are more resilient than cockroaches.

Language:
- If foreigners can’t understand Korean, then they are obviously clueless to body language and gestures as well.
- You are not even sure that you could imitate the hacking sound Koreans make when they spit. It's all in the pronunciation.
- You actually prefer bowing to saying hello…

Other Random:
- Koreans have made condescension an art form.
- Sometimes the only thing more annoying than Koreans are other foreigners.
- Nothing says I love you better than a cheap candy breadstick.
- Broom handles are needlessly short. Now you know why their spines are so twisted in old age. 
- Kids go crazy for leading a wire rim across the ground with a stick and throwing arrows in a bucket.
- Blue eyes can put others into a state of hypnosis.
- People love to know your blood type...
- Children love arm hair...
- There are more oscillating-fan-related deaths than shootings...
- Any decent men's tie should sparkle...
- You are now always ready for anything to happen…
- You actually believe that you are really handsome or beautiful!

That's all for now! Will update about my vacation to France once I'm back in Texas!

XOXO,
Amanda


Tuesday, February 7, 2012

Seoul & DMZ Trip

As discussed, I decided to stay in Korea for my winter vacation in order to save some money & finish seeing some places here before I go home. I had a general idea of what I wanted to do & all I was aware of at the beginning of January was that I would be teaching until the 20th, and after that I had no idea what was expected of me at work. I told my teacher I only planned to go to Seoul for the few days after the Lunar new year holiday.


So, on the last day of work in January (a few minutes before leaving), my co-teacher finally brings me a piece of paper with my official vacation dates. On it, it says, January 25th, and then February 14th-24th (10 official work days off). I immediately remind him that I only had plans for Jan 25-29th. He then proceeds to tell me that I only have to come to work from Feb 6th-10th and that the rest of the days are "secret vacation" days. While I did enjoy those "secret" days, I was somewhat frustrated that they did not tell me my vacation dates sooner so that I could make plans. Awhile back I had asked them if I could take my vacation at the end of my contract so that I could go to France before going home, but they said I must be here on the last day of my contract due to the pay period (they just wanted to be difficult).


That puts me to where I am now. I took my "stay-cation" trip, but now I'm also going to France! I dropped that bombshell of information on my school yesterday, my first day back to work, lol. He seemed surprised, but I told him that because they told me my dates (literally last minute), I planned this trip last minute. All's fair, right?! He was not happy because he had wanted to do some paperwork next week, but I explained I wouldn't be here. Like I'm gonna use my official vacation days to do paperwork when I could do it this week? Nice try! So now I have this massive to-do list before I leave this Saturday, but it's worth it!!


Going back to my "stay-cation" I headed to Seoul at 6am (the only train time available due to the holiday) and then met up with Cindy at our hostel. The first day we basically went sight-seeing around the city w/ another friend Lucille (to a palace, a famous tourist area, & of course shopping). I had ripped my last pair of jeans I owned early that day, so shopping for jeans was a must. And if you have to buy jeans as a foreigner here, your best bet is to go to Seoul to find your size. 


Cool structure :)
 Han River
 changing of the guards @ the palace
Lucille & I @ Gyeongbok Palace
 traditional Hanbok clothing
 my Chinese zodiac

The next day Cindy & I decided to do both mature things & child-like activities. So, in the morning we went to the Seoul Museum of Art  where we saw aerial view pictures of the world. It was pretty cool to see & interesting to learn what kind of effect we are making on our environment. There were a lot of pictures like the last one below (army tank trash pile) that show how wasteful we are with our land. 

Blue Lagoon in Iceland
 Icebergs in Antarctica 
 The Heart of Voh in New Caledonia
Wasted army tanks 

Then in the afternoon we went to Lotte World! Lotte World is basically Korea's version of "Disneyland" in that it's an amusement park with lots of characters & rides. Cindy & I rode a few rides, took pictures w/ some trick art & ate some ice cream...basically just like the little kids were doing :)

Inside the amusement park
 Trick Art
 Trick Art
Ice Cream :) 
Outside of the amusement park
(waiting for the Gyro Drop ride)

The 3rd day I made the dangerous decision to go shopping again, lol. Cindy had to get back to her town, and Tracy was joining me later in the evening so I went back to Forever 21 & H&M to browse again. :) Once Tracy got to Seoul we met up for dinner then headed to bed early for our early early tour of the DMZ the next morning!

We woke up before 6am in order to get dressed & venture over to the USO to begin our tour. The bus ride took about an hour and a half to get to the DMZ. We thought we'd be able to nap on the bus ride, but the tour guide was insistent upon keeping us alert. Her stories were pretty interesting though & it was her last day of working as a tour guide. Once we got there we went to the JSA (joint security area) first, where N.Korea and S.Korea meet in a small blue building to discuss things when necessary. Across from us we could see a N.Korea soldier diligently observing our every move through his binoculars. While inside the building if we were standing on the right side of the meeting table, we were technically on N.Korea territory. This is where I took my picture with the ROK soldier :)

JSA



After this area we went to some different areas around the DMZ line where I learned all kinds of stories & information that I never knew about the two countries. We were able to see the propaganda village (which is a fake village set-up by the N.Koreans to convince the S.Koreans to move to their side...nice try! lol) as well as the freedom village, which is where some S.Koreans live & don't have to pay any taxes to the government. In order to live there you must either be born in the village, or a female may marry into it. 

We were also able to walk down one of the tunnels that the N.Koreans attempted to dig in order to attack S.Korea. This was the 3rd tunnel of 4 known tunnels. They believe there are many many more out there though. We ended the trip by going to an area where we could look out over a big part of N.Korea & then to the last train station in S.Korea that leads to N.Korea.

Propaganda Village
 Monument for the "Axe Murder" incident 
 "Bridge of no-return"
 Tracy & I after our "mini-hike" in the tunnel
 Peace sign picture of course :)
 Looking into N.Korea

So, other than eating lots of western food in Seoul, that sums up my stay-cation! Right now I'm sitting at work for my final week! I was told I'd be desk-warming, but of course they misinformed me & some classes have come in but I just give them free time, so it's basically like desk-warming. Plus it's my last few days of work, so I can't complain too much! Besides, soon I will be in France with my brother, sis-in-law, niece, nephew, & father. Then 12 days after that I will come back here to Korea to gather the rest of my things, say one last good-bye to a few friends, & hop on yet another flight to officially move home to TEXAS to see the rest of my family & friends! :) 

I will try to blog a couple more times if I get a chance, but most likely not until I'm back home. Will definitely write about my trip to France! Until then, I must continue the packing process this evening! So far it looks like I should be able to fit everything back into those same 4 bags I brought here with me! 

XOXO,
Amanda